By late 1976,
bands such as the Ramones in New York City and the Sex Pistols and The Clash in
London were recognized as the vanguard of a new musical movement. The following
year saw punk rock spreading around the world, and it became a major cultural
phenomenon in the United Kingdom. For the most part, punk took root in local
scenes that tended to reject association with the mainstream. An associated
punk subculture emerged, expressing youthful rebellion and characterized by
distinctive styles of clothing and adornment and a variety of
anti-authoritarian ideologies.
By the beginning
of the 1980s, faster, more aggressive styles such as hardcore and Oi! had
become the predominant mode of punk rock. Musicians identifying with or
inspired by punk also pursued a broad range of other variations, giving rise to
post-punk and the alternative rock movement. By the start of the 21st century,
pop punk had been adopted by the mainstream, as bands such as Green Day and The
Offspring brought the genre widespread popularity.
Punk fashion
Punk fashion is
the styles of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry, and body modifications
of the punk subculture. Punk fashion varies widely from Vivienne Westwood
styles to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited. The distinct social dress
of other subcultures and art movements, including glam rock, skinheads, rude
boys, greasers, and mods have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has
likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of popular
culture.
The classic punk
rock look among male American musicians harkens back to the T-shirt, motorcycle
jacket, and jeans ensemble favored by American greasers of the 1950s associated
with the rockabilly scene and by British rockers of the 1960s. The cover of the
Ramones' 1976 debut album, featuring a shot of the band by Punk photographer
Roberta Bayley, set forth the basic elements of a style that was soon widely
emulated by rock musicians both punk and nonpunk. Richard Hell's more
androgynous, ragamuffin look—and reputed invention of the safety-pin
aesthetic—was a major influence on Sex Pistols impresario Malcolm McLaren and,
in turn, British punk style. John Morton of Cleveland's Electric Eels may have
been the first rock musician to wear a safety-pin-covered jacket. McLaren's
partner, fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, credits Johnny Rotten as the first
British punk to rip his shirt, and Sex Pistols bassist Sid Vicious as the first
to use safety pins. Early female punk musicians displayed styles ranging from
Siouxsie Sioux's bondage gear to Patti Smith's "straight-from-the-gutter
androgyny". The former proved much more influential on female fan styles.
Over time, tattoos, piercings, and metal-studded and -spiked accessories became
increasingly common elements of punk fashion among both musicians and fans, a
"style of adornment calculated to disturb and outrage". The typical
male punk haircut was originally short and choppy; the Mohawk later emerged as
a characteristic style. Those in hardcore scenes often adopt a skinhead look.
The
characteristic stage performance style of male punk musicians does not deviate
significantly from the macho postures classically associated with rock music. Female
punk musicians broke more clearly from earlier styles. Scholar John Strohm
suggests that they did so by creating personas of a type conventionally seen as
masculine: "They adopted a tough, unladylike pose that borrowed more from
the macho swagger of sixties garage bands than from the calculated bad-girl image
of bands like The Runaways." Scholar Dave Laing describes how bassist Gaye
Advert adopted fashion elements associated with male musicians only to generate
a stage persona readily consumed as "sexy". Laing focuses on more
innovative and challenging performance styles, seen in the various erotically
destabilizing approaches of Siouxsie Sioux, The Slits' Ari Up, and X-Ray Spex'
Poly Styrene.
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