A leopard's disruptively colored coat provides camouflage for this ambush predator. |
Mammalian
coats are colored for a variety of reasons, the major selective pressures
including camouflage, sexual selection, communication, and physiological
processes such as temperature regulation. Camouflage is a powerful influence in
a large number of mammals, as it helps to conceal individuals from predators or
prey. Aposematism, warning off possible predators, is the most likely
explanation of the black-and-white pelage of many mammals which are able to
defend themselves, such as in the foul-smelling skunk and the powerful and
aggressive honey badger. In arctic and subarctic mammals such as the arctic fox
(Alopex lagopus), collared lemming (Dicrostonyx groenlandicus), stoat (Mustela
erminea), and snowshoe hare (Lepus americanus), seasonal color change between
brown in summer and white in winter is driven largely by camouflage.
Differences in female and male coat color may indicate nutrition and hormone
levels, important in mate selection. Some arboreal mammals, notably primates
and marsupials, have shades of violet, green, or blue skin on parts of their
bodies, indicating some distinct advantage in their largely arboreal habitat
due to convergent evolution. The green coloration of sloths, however, is the
result of a symbiotic relationship with algae. Coat color is sometimes sexually
dimorphic, as in many primate species. Coat color may influence the ability to
retain heat, depending on how much light is reflected. Mammals with a darker
colored coat can absorb more heat from solar radiation, and stay warmer, and
some smaller mammals, such as voles, have darker fur in the winter. The white,
pigmentless fur of arctic mammals, such as the polar bear, may reflect more
solar radiation directly onto the skin.
The term
pelage – first known use in English c. 1828 (French, from Middle French, from
poil for "hair", from Old French peilss, from Latin pilus – is sometimes
used to refer to an animal's complete coat. The term fur is also used to refer
to animal pelts which have been processed into leather with their hair still
attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to
hair-like growths or formations, particularly when the subject being referred
to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft "hairs". If layered, rather
than grown as a single coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard
hairs, and in some cases, medium awn hairs. Mammals with reduced amounts of fur
are often called "naked", as with the naked mole-rat, or
"hairless", as with hairless dogs.
Neanderthal |
Use in clothing
Fur has
long served as a source of clothing for humans, including Neanderthals.
Historically, it was worn for its insulating quality, with aesthetics becoming
a factor over time. Pelts were worn in or out, depending on their
characteristics and desired use. Today fur and trim used in garments may be
dyed bright colors or to mimic exotic animal patterns, or shorn close like
velvet. The term "a fur" may connote a coat, wrap, or shawl.
The
manufacturing of fur clothing involves obtaining animal pelts where the hair is
left on the animal's processed skin. In contrast, making leather involves
removing the hair from the hide or pelt and using only the skin. The use of
wool involves shearing the animal's fleece from the living animal, so that the
wool can be regrown but sheepskin shearling is made by retaining the fleece to
the leather and shearing it. Shearling is used for boots, jackets and coats and
is probably the most common type of skin worn.
Fur is
also used to make felt. Felt is a textile material that is produced by matting,
condensing and pressing fibers together. Felt can be made of natural fibers
such as wool or animal fur, or from synthetic fibers such as petroleum-based
acrylic or acrylonitrile or wood pulp-based rayon. Blended fibers are also
common. A common felt is made from beaver fur and is used in high-end cowboy
hats.
Fur
today
In spite
of organized backlash against it, the fur market in 2016 Was $30 billion.
Heritage fashion houses such as Hermès, Dior and Chanel still use natural fur.
Alex Mcintosh, who leads the Fashion Futures post grad program at London College
of Fashion, says “Change on this level would only be driven on a genuine lack
of demand and not just social media outcry”. As McIntosh puts it, “The choice
not to sell fur is not an environmental decision. People conflating not
selling fur with sustainability is quite dangerous, because they are not the
same thing. It’s not a choice that is about sustainability, it’s a choice about
ethics and what you think is acceptable in terms of animal welfare."
No, I don't like madams with a fur coat
Madams with a fur coat are mean
I not need nothing from madams with a
fur coat
Against madam with a fur coat I say no
I think I can tell you now
I'm going to start a case in madams
skins
I'm going to catch them on the Avenue
Louise
On banquets, horse racing and smart
receptions
In the Saturday Night Fever pub
At the Rotary and the Lions club
With my big mousetrap and my bottle full
of poison
I catch as much as I can
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